How the history of glassmaking in an Umbrian village meets a personal dream

Readers of Il Bel Centro: A Year in the Beautiful Center will already know all about Colleen and Tom—how they took us under their wing when we moved to Spello and how we celebrated moments small and large with them. And so, I’m thrilled Colleen agreed to put her pen to paper to share with us how the story of her village of Piegaro intertwined with her and Tom’s dream to move to Umbria. If you have a trip to Umbria in the cards, I recommend looking at her rental. I’ve referred countless people to her and they consistently rave about her knowledge of the town’s history, unique aspects of the surrounding areas, and the total bliss of swimming in a pool looking out over the Umbrian landscape. Her love for her adopted home of Piegaro is evident in her thoughtful approach to life in Umbria, and is also apparent in just how much the villagers love her as well. Everyone stops to talk to Colleen. The post below will show you why.

How the history of glassmaking in an Umbrian village meets a personal dream in Piegaro

by Colleen Simpson

In your travels around Umbria and just a valley away from Spello, discover Piegaro, a quiet village in Umbria with a remarkable history.  It is a typical perched medieval village with its encircling walls and many defensive towers rising among the forest of oaks above the Nestore River and the verdant valley below.  As early as 535 BC there was a temple to Diana where Piagarium was inscribed on a door.  Wounded Roman soldiers from the Punic Wars with Hannibal settled the village around 217 BC.

Piegaro experienced a great cultural and industrial development during the middle ages due to the famous 1292 Venice Proclamation.  There, glass artisans who were part of the life and commerce of Venice for hundreds of years, were banished to the Island of Murano in the Lagoon.  Fires from the glass ovens had burned enough of Venice for the citizens to demand their exodus.

Some of the most famous Italian glass masters left Venice immediately, traveling south to Umbria near Perugia in search of a more amiable setting.  Finding bountiful fuel for their ovens in the forests and a nice river with silt they needed for glass, they settled in Piegaro.  The citizens of Piegaro welcomed them with open arms, noting a fine opportunity for commerce when they saw one!  

These glass artisans founded their first glassworks (vetreria), in the 9th century wall and tower of the village, building four glass ovens into the ancient wall.  Later, in the 15th century, they built up two more floors above street level and installed two larger glass ovens in the second level of the outside wall. The third level held an immense basin of molten glass with tempering ovens within a huge arch.

The glass artisans of Piegaro achieved great fame around Europe creating huge glass chandeliers, the glittering mosaics of the façade of the famous Duomo of Orvieto, the transepts and rose windows of the grand cathedrals of Bologna, Perugia, and Milan. 

The glassworks thrived until Piegaro was occupied by the German army during World War II.  

For over sixty years after the war, this famous glassworks lay crumbling and abandoned.  The people of Piegaro lived and worked within its shadow but its former fame had faded, eclipsed by a fully automated glass factory established in the valley in 1960, the largest in Europe. The factory still produces glassware, and so over twenty generations of Piegarese have worked in the flourishing glass industry.

Now, the dreams of ancient glassmakers from Venice have been reborn from our personal dream.

Chestnuts roasting for Piegaro’s annual chestnut festival

Landing in Italy on our honeymoon in 1993 we fell in love with Umbria—the people, history, culture, food, and wine.  Returning each year to find the perfect place to welcome guests to experience village life, we stumbled, literally, on Piegaro’s vast abandoned glassworks in 2004. Climbing on ladders to see the 9th century tower, avoiding holes in the floor, carefully making our way through blackberry vines to explore the ancient lower levels, we knew this was what we had dreamed of for years. We set forth on an evolving journey to rescue this historic jewel, one of the most important structures in the village of Piegaro with its 750 years of glassmaking history. 

Our vision for a beautiful resort captured the imagination of the mayor who, like his ancestors before him, immediately saw the opportunity for commerce. He welcomed us by gifting some land for terraces and a pool. In addition, the mayor assisted our endeavors by building a private road to access the property and helped find the best local craftsmen who took great pride in restoring this beautiful, but long neglected gem.  Using only locally sourced ancient stone, wooden beams and handmade ironwork, we lovingly brought this remarkable property to life. It’s been a long and satisfying journey, made the more satisfying by connecting to the life and energy of this welcoming village.  

We have integrated ourselves into village life, living full-time (but off site) in Piegaro. Living here, as opposed to managing the property from abroad, has allowed us to feel a part of the village, and also to introduce our guests to authentic Umbria. Nothing makes us happier than providing people a dream-come-true holiday. 

After living and traveling in Italy for almost thirty years we love showcasing the most unique and historic places to visit nearby. There is Orvieto, resting on its tufa plateau with its glittering Duomo. Lago Trasimeno is only minutes away with its beaches for swimming or sitting at a beach café watching the daily sunset. The renowned town of Assisi, home to St. Francis with its grotto of caves where he slept in the forest and its grand basilica covered with frescoes is just across the valley. Gubbio has a breathtaking tram ride to the top of Mt. Ingino where one can sit on the café terrace with its panoramic views across the valley below. Or there’s the vanishing village of Civita de Bagnoregio, slowly collapsing into the tufa below. For guests in the mood for some Renaissance splendor, the iconic Tuscan town of Cortona, made famous by the movie “Under the Tuscan Sun”, is just 30 minutes away. 

It often feels like a week is not enough time for our guests to drink in the many beauties and adventures accessible from our little village. Particularly as they need to leave loads of room for relaxing by the pool with panoramic views of the green Umbrian countryside. With so much to do and not do, it’s no wonder we have guests who come back every year, never tiring of new discoveries and being in the warm embrace of our beautiful village.

One of my favorite aspects about owning a historic property is the opportunity to give weekly free historic, tour of the village. The tour includes a trip through Piegaro’s well-curated glass museum, and I love to watch guests faces light up as they learn about the history of this fascinating village. There’s also a huge weekly market filled with fresh fruit, vegetables, porchetta truck and vibrant clothing for a taste of village life. 

Another destination I love to escort our guests is nearby Castello Monte Vibbiano Vecchio, the  renowned organic winery and olive oil producer. There we visit the vineyards and sample their award-winning wines and oils (all for free). Part of the advantage of being here as long as we have is cultivating these relationships with producers, which in turn allows us to share these unique windows in Umbrian life with visitors who otherwise wouldn’t be able to access the experience.

It’s a constant source of joy to me that all these years later, the people of Piegaro greet visitors with a ready smile. To my eyes the villagers reflect the spirit of their ancestors who invited the glass artisans to stay. It’s a lesson I’ve learned from my new neighbors—how to welcome newcomers with open arms. 

Colleen and her husband Tom own L’Antica Vetreria, a property with four self-contained apartments as well as a luxury villa.  It is the only village holiday home with a pool, located on the western wall for beautiful sunsets, panoramic views from terraces, and just steps to the main piazza. Take a look at www.anticavetreria.net to choose the vacation of your own dreams in Umbria.

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